Your Source for 'Ff'lo

After Lima, the next part of the tour was the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cusco (Qusqu) city, former capital of the Incan Empire, "navel of the world", and recognised as "capital histórica" in the Peruvian constitution. Although conquered by the Spanish and subject to many centuries of colonialism, the permanent population of the city is of Quechuan background and uses this indigenous language. The old city, designed in the shape of a puma, the sacred terrestial power, has structures that date back from the Incan times, whilst the majority of the cobblestone roads, churches, and residental-commercial establishmentes are from the colonial period or the more contemporary Republican period up to mid-20th century styles where, after a major earthquake, much of the city required restoration. With numerous Incan and colonial sites of note, it is the major attraction for tourists and colourful locals who are all too willing to dress in colourful traditional clothes as they parade their alpacas about.

Our initial stay was at the Hotel Costa Del Sol, whose simple entrance belies a pleasing interior. Well-located, it was a short walk to two major parks, the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza Regocijo, the former home to the imposing churches, the "Catedral del Cuzco" and the "Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús", the latter especially rich in Baroque design. Both of these feature grand Gothic ceilings and are full of gilt items and late traditional religious art. Keeping to the theme, nearby is the "El Convento y la Iglesia de Santo Domingo" and the Incan "Templo del Sol Coricancha". The integration of the Incan masonry into the Spanish church is quite impressive here, as is the artwork, museum information, and gardens. A short distance, and overlooking the old city is the Incan fortress and vast grounds of Sacsayhuamán, the underground shrine of Qenko, and nearby Tambomachay, a collection of terraced aqueducts, canals and waterfalls.

Travelling further afield in the following days, we ventured into the Sacred Valley, whose rich soils provided for much of the old Incan Empire and which had been inhabited since the Chanapata civilisation almost three thousand years ago. The Inca complex at Písac provides a very fine example of the terraced agricultural techniques of the area, as well as an impressive collection of old buildings. Also of special note in the Sacred Valley is Ollantaytambo, a grand example of terracing and irrigation, storehouses, and a massive temple. Just before entering the Ollantaytambo, I also experienced a slight accident - there was a bump in the road, and I managed to donk the top of my head on the ceiling of the bus quite convincingly, taking out a chunk of my epidermis and requiring first aid attention. The next few days would be spent with the now-bald wounded area receiving regular treatment of disinfectant cream, covered by a makeup-removing pad (rather like a small yarmulke), and then by a rapidly purchased brimmed alpaca-felt hat. It was far from a serious wound, but the possibility of infection due to dust was significant, so multiple layers of precaution were taken - all in time for the journey to Machu Picchu, one of the greatest wonders of the world.